Selecting woods for a guitar.
How to Select Woods
First – Body Style
Petros Guitar’s three body sizes play an important role in meeting your needs. The choice depends on your playing style. The smaller body FS is most popular for the more subtle, finger style player. The Dreadnought is for the more aggressive, heavy-handed, rhythmic style player. The popular Grand Concert is a great in between choice. Make this decision first. Woods come next.
Woods – A Brief Education
There are a lot of words used to describe how a guitar sounds. The seemingly endless effort expended to come up with the latest, greatest, most nuanced description has reached almost comical proportions. At Petros Guitars, we like to simplify the choice of woods for you, the player, as much as possible.
At Petros Guitars, we start with master-grade tone woods that have only the best, proven track records for producing good sound in acoustic, steel strung guitars. We then classify these exceptional woods on a hardness/density scale (see charts below). We have placed the different woods on a scale from lightest and softest to heaviest and hardest and have suggested pairings of tops and backs.
The harder the back wood is, the less energy it absorbs and so the less it vibrates. The less it vibrates the more it projects. The cost of great projection is reduced tonal color as contributed by that wood. Conversely, softer woods vibrate more and produce great tonal color, but project less well.
So, hard back tone woods are heavier, vibrate less, effectively focus energy to the top and, therefore, project powerfully.
Soft back tone woods are lighter, vibrate more, focus less sound to the top, but contribute to more evocative color and tone.
The Guitar Top – Heart of the Instrument
The top is the heart of the instrument. It “makes or breaks” the sound of a guitar, regardless of what back wood is employed. Because the top is so important to how a guitar sounds, Petros top construction has been very highly refined over the years. We can reliably produce well-balanced tone with lots of harmonic body. Slightly arching the top creates stability and wonderful overtones, while the graduating of the top’s thickness creates big, deep basses. This remains consistent regardless of the back and side woods we employ. Yet, while the overall volume, weight and timbre changes, just as a gold flute will sound different than a silver one, one is not superior to another. They are just different.
Petros Guitars builds tops with time-proven techniques that produce consistently well-balanced, well-defined tonal characteristics. The different wood combinations used contribute to the production of a pleasing array of variations in timbre and volume. The Petros techniques for building the guitar top are far more important than the difference, for example, between Sitka and Adirondack top woods. Adirondack is harder so the top is made thinner than a Sitka top would be. (This has a tendency to make Petros Adirondack guitars a bit louder.)
Cedar and Redwood are very much alike and are softer than Sitka and Red Spruce. Being softer woods they need to be made a bit thicker. While less loud than the harder tops, these lighter woods make for very responsive, delicate sounding Fingerstyle instruments that produce warm tones and are favored for their expressiveness. Englemann and Italian Spruce fall between Cedar and Sitka.
A Word on Top Development Over Time
The Cedars and Redwoods do not develop dramatically over time like the Spruces. This is primarily because the Spruces contain resins that continue to dry and harden over many years. Cedar and Redwood don’t have resins and sound pretty well developed right off the bench. All guitars will break in and develop regardless of resin content by virtue of playing and vibration through some magical realignment and relaxing of the wood fibers and molecules. All very scientific!
Deciding on Back Wood and Top Combinations
In my experience, the softer the back, the softer the top should be. A softer back with an Adirondack top will absorb too much energy to efficiently drive that top. Generally speaking, if you want a softer back, go with a softer top – Cedar, Redwood or Englemann. If you are a more aggressive player and really want maximum volume and lots of headroom, we suggest a harder back and a harder top. A hard back and any top, even the softest, will completely utilize that top. If your style is more delicate and you play with more nuance and subtlety, you would naturally lean toward the softer, lighter weight woods. A good, in between compromise is Indian Rosewood and Sitka… both in the middle of the hardness scale. They are an excellent pairing and therefore very popular. Bottom line, you can pick the woods you like best for any of a number of reasons – visual appeal, for example – and Petros Guitars will do what it takes to make it superbly well balanced.
Top Woods
Western Red Cedar
Our master grade Western Red Cedar from Western Canada is personally selected for us to meet our strict criterion. We choose extremely tight grain, very stiff across the grain and a beautiful, consistent chocolate brown color.
Redwood
Redwood grows only in a relatively small area of coastal California. The tree this wood came from was cut down in the 1800’s, probably about the the same time as the Civil War. Redwood can be described as cedar on steroids. Extremely light, stiff and brittle. An excellent tonewood.
Englemann
Englemann Spruce is lighter than Sitka, whiter in color, softer but still very stiff. Preferred by many fingerstylists who prefer more nuance in the softer dynamic range, This wood is personally selected for evenness of grain, stiffness across the grain and a beautiful tap tone.
Italian Spruce
Italian Spruce has been used in the Italian tradition of violin making. Stradivarius himself used this wood to construct his famous instruments. Studies have been conducted to explain why this Spruce has superior acoustic qualities have have concluded that this is the king of tonewoods.
Sitka Spruce
Sitka Spruce is the standard of the industry for guitar tops because of its strength to weight ratio and its tonal qualities. We have a supply of the absolute best Sitka in the world. It is harvested in Alaska and Canada and processed by experts in the business.
Adirondack Spruce
This is stuff that Martin Guitars used in the early 1900’s until it ran out. It is the heaviest of the spruces. We make it thinner than the other spruces to compensate for it’s added weight. Hard to get really good quality because of the size of the trees, mostly less than 100 years old.
Back and Side Woods
Alaskan Yellow Cedar
Alaskan Yellow Cedar, technically a Cypress, is one of the slowest growing trees. There are more than 50 grains per inch on the wood I have. The grain is so tight, you can hardly see it. It is hard and heavy and rings like a bell. This is a unique wood that can be used for backs or tops.
Koa
Koa, found only on the islands of Hawaii, is getting harder and harder to find. It is a beautiful wood and is in same general weight and tonal category of Mahogany and Walnut and Sapele. Get it before it’s gone. We have a limited supply of excellent sets.
Sapele
A common hardwood from Africa that is a bit harder and heavier than Mahogany. As you may guess, this particular piece of Sapele is not so common. This tree has spectacular figure and I have a very limited supply.
Claro Walnut
Beautiful, figured, stable, light weight tonewood from Walnut orchards on the West coast. I use this in lieu of Mahogany because I like it better and it sounds the same. Pair it with the softer top woods for best results.
Bolivian Rosewood
Bolivian Rosewood or Pau Ferro comes from South America and is a perfect wood for backs and sides with an excellent weight to strength ratio, beautiful tap tone, is extremely stable and pretty to boot. You can't go wrong with this stuff.
Ziricote
Ziricote comes from Central America. Here is an example of presentation grade wood exhibiting growth characteristics that create a beautiful pattern. It also has a hardness, stiffness and tap tone that belies its weight.
East Indian Rosewood
This high quality tonewood is the standard of the industry because of its beauty, stability and consistent tonal qualities. All of the Indian Rosewood we use is personally selected from thousands of sets to get the best of the best.
Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood has been used in the construction of the finest guitars, but is very rare. I procured some of this beautiful wood, quarter sawn with flitch matched backs and sides. I have a very limited supply of this treasure.
African Rosewood, Bubinga
African Rosewood is an excellent tonewood. Actually a large and common tree, this wood came from a rare jewel amongst those giants. I’ve never seen this figure before I chanced upon this exquisite material. There may not be another tree like it. My personal favorite.
Ceylon Satinwood
Ceylon Satinwood is an amazing tonewood that is primarily from Sri Lanka and Ceylon. Quarter sawn pieces with this beautiful bees wing figure are very rare indeed. It is very hard and has a great tap tone. Infinitely more rare than Brazilian Rosewood and just as desirable.
Ebony
Ebony back and sides, It doesn’t get any better than this. Hard, heavy, stable, beautiful and elegant. A great alternative to Brazilian rosewood. I have two species: Macassar Ebony and Malaysian Blackwood.
Cocobolo
Cocobolo grows in Mexico and Central America. It is an excellent substitute for Brazilian Rosewood but is quite a bit heavier. It has a glassy tap tone and beautiful colors. All the Cocobolo we use is quarter sawn for stability and that classic look.
Cambodian Rosewood
This rosewood from Cambodia is a true rosewood (Dalbergia Bariensis) that is not oily, is extremely hard and quite heavy and has a glassy tap tone like Brazilian Rosewood. It comes from fairly small trees so it is tricky to get large quarter sawn sets, but we have some and it is very nice.
Back and side woods.
Species | Weight/Spec. Gravity | Recommended top pairings |
Alaskan Yellow Cedar | 29/.38 | 1 – 4 |
Mahogany | 35/.54 | 1 – 5 |
Koa | 37/.57 | 1 – 5 |
Sapele | 41/.58 | 1 – 5 |
Claro Walnut | 40/.55 | 1 – 5 |
Bolivian Rosewood | 42/.70 | 1 – 7 |
Ziricote | 53/.66 | 1 – 7 |
E Indian Rosewood | 53/.77 | 1 – 7 |
Brazilian Rosewood | 53/.77 | 1 – 7 |
African Rosewood (Bubinga) | 56/.88 | 1 – 7 |
Ceylon Satinwood | 62/.88 | 1 – 7 |
Ebony (Macassar or Malaysian) | 54/1.01 | 1 – 7 |
Cocobolo | 63/1.02 | 1 – 7 |
Cambodian Rosewood | 72/.97 | 1 – 7 |
Less common woods.
Species | Weight/Spec. Gravity | Recommended top pairings |
Shedua | 37/.46 | 1 – 5 |
Zebra Wood | 47/.55 | 1 – 7 |
Wenge | 54/.83 | 1 – 7 |
Madagascar Rosewood | 58/.47 | 1 – 7 |
Paua Rosa | 68/.67 | 1 – 7 |
Bois De Rose | 58/.47 | 1 – 7 |
Top woods.
Species | Weight/Spec. Gravity | |
1 | Western Red Cedar | 24/.33 |
2 | Redwood | 25/.38 |
3 | Engelmann | 26/.34 |
4 | Italian Spruce | 26/.35 |
5 | Sitka Spruce | 27/.36 |
6 | Adirondack Spruce | 28/.37 |
7 | Alaskan Yellow Cedar | 29/.38 |